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Okinawa, the largest of the Ryukyu Islands
that stretch southwest from Japan all the way to Taiwan, has a split personality.
It's always been in-between: influenced by the Asian mainland but distinct,
nominally Japan but really quite separate, occupied by the U. S. but clearly
not America; and now definitely part of Japan (they actually drive on the
same side of the road as the mainland now) but yet so often an afterthought,
much like Hawaii is to the mainland U. S. Ask any Japanese what the southernmost
city in Japan is and odds are they'll still say Kagoshima (which is on Kyushu).
Yet Okinawa has always had its own distinct culture (go to an Okinawan museum
if you don't believe me - or just try to read some of the place names on
the road signs). And the culture has a depth that is often missed by those
who think of the island primarily in terms of World War II (as Americans
tend to do) or in terms of sunny beaches (as mainland Japanese tend to do).
Among the cultural riches that Okinawan has provided to the world are karate
and the distinctive Okinawan music and rhythms. These days many Japanese
would add a third item: Awamori, the powerful and very popular Okinawan
sake.
Whether you've come to get drunk on sun and surf or just to get drunk, Okinawa
offers much to the cyclist. Just stock up on sunscreen -- and beverages,
if you plan to cycle the rugged northeast coast. |