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Real Japanofiles might want to see one other thing in this area: Chiiori, the restored thatch-roof farmhouse made famous in Alex Kerr's book "Lost Japan" (original Japanese title "Utsukushii Nippon no Zanzo"). Chiiori is now the site of the Chiiori Project, sponsoring events to acquaint both foreigners and modern Japanese with traditional Japanese culture, living and philosophy. However, it's only open to the public at certain times, mainly weekends: check out the web site (http://www.chiiori.org) before you go to see if there are any special events planned. Also note that it's a steep climb (look for the right turn leading to "Kimura Residence" and below it the sign for "Alex Jutaku" in Japanese). Final note: the house itself is unmarked: when you pass the "kominkan" (town hall) and the log cabin beyond it, you're getting close; it's at the end of a path down the hill to the right. You can see just the top of the roof from the road.

On my first trip to this area, I arrived at Kazurabashi without reservations or camping gear, during the two "crunch days" of Golden Week. I ended up staying in the campground, in a rented tent with no sleeping bag, in the middle of the mountains where it gets very cold even in early May. The next morning, I walked across the bridge once more (even scarier with no sleep) and then set off to cycle over a pass that I thought was only 700m. A crinkle on my map obscured the real height: 1,173m. Must have been the lack of sleep... It was a very gradual climb, however, and I quite enjoyed it - while occasionally wondering when it would end.

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